Dressmaking: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What dressmaking is

A dressmaker designs and sews a custom dress from your measurements, a pattern or a photo you bring. The dress is fitted in stages, and the fabric, neckline and length are chosen with you.

Signs you need it

  • You want a dress in a fabric or style that is not sold in stores
  • You have a special event such as a graduation, a dinner or a holiday party and need a dress that fits well
  • You have a pattern or a photo of a dress and want it made to your size
  • Ready-made dresses never fit your bust, waist or shoulders correctly
  • You want a dress made for a specific body shape or a special need

What the pro does

  • Asks about the style, the occasion, the fabric and the color you want
  • Takes measurements and checks your posture, bust, waist and hip shape
  • Drafts or adjusts a pattern from your measurements, or uses the pattern you bring
  • Cuts a test version or muslin to check the fit before cutting the final fabric
  • Sews the dress and adds the lining, closures and finishing details
  • Fits you at the final fitting and makes any last changes before you pick it up

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • The style of the dress, such as a simple shift or a structured gown
  • The fabric, lining and trim, and how much is needed
  • Whether the dress has beading, embroidery, lace or other detailing
  • The number of fittings and whether a muslin is made
  • How complex the fit is, such as a fitted bodice or a structured back
  • How soon you need the dress and whether a rush is requested

What a written quote should spell out

  • The dress style, fabric, lining and trim named in the quote
  • The number of fittings and whether a muslin fitting is included
  • Whether beading, embroidery or detailing is included
  • The completion date and the final fitting date
  • Whether alterations after delivery are included, and for how long

Questions to ask before you hire

  • Can I see dresses you have made for people with a body shape like mine?
  • Will you make a muslin or test version before cutting the final fabric?
  • What fabrics do you recommend for this style, and why?
  • How many fittings will I need, and when should they be scheduled?
  • How do you finish the seams and the lining on the inside?
  • What happens if the fit is off at the final fitting?
  • Can you copy a dress from a photo I bring, and what do you need from me?

Red flags

  • Does not take full measurements or asks only for a size
  • Will not show finished dresses from the inside, such as the seams and lining
  • Starts cutting the final fabric without a fitting or a test version
  • Promises a finished dress in a very short time with no fittings
  • Pressures you to choose a fabric or trim you have not seen

What you can do yourself

You can sew a simple dress from a beginner pattern if you have basic machine skills, and test the fit on a scrap of fabric first. Keep your measurements up to date for any future sewing. Hire a dressmaker for a fitted bodice, a structured gown, lace or beading, or any dress that must fit a special occasion, because the fitting takes skill and time.

Licenses and permits

A license is often not required for dressmaking, but rules differ by state and city. Ask for a portfolio of finished dresses, photos of the inside construction and proof of training or apprenticeship.

Dressmaking questions

How many fittings does a custom dress need?

Most custom dresses need at least two fittings, and more for a fitted or structured design. Ask the dressmaker to schedule the fittings before you agree to the order.

Can I bring my own fabric?

Often yes. Ask the dressmaker whether the fabric is suitable for the design and whether they need a sample first. Bring enough fabric for the pattern and a little extra for changes.

How long should I wait before ordering a dress for an event?

Give the dressmaker enough time for the fittings and the final adjustments. Ask them to set a date for the final fitting and a pick-up date that works for your event.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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