Tailoring and alterations: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What tailoring and alterations is

A tailor adjusts clothing so it fits better, with jobs such as hemming pants, taking in a jacket, shortening sleeves or replacing a zipper. Alterations are most useful when the garment is well made and the fit is the only problem.

Signs you need it

  • Your pants are too long, too wide or break in the wrong place
  • A jacket or dress fits well in the shoulders but gaps at the waist
  • Your sleeves are too long or too tight at the wrist
  • You bought an item off the rack and want it to fit the way it would in a store that fits you
  • A zipper, hem or seam has failed and the garment needs repair before you can wear it

What the pro does

  • Looks at the garment and asks what fit you want and where it is wrong
  • Measures you or the garment and marks the changes with pins or chalk
  • Checks the fit with you on, and makes a second mark if needed
  • Takes in, lets out, hems or replaces the zipper or lining as the job calls for
  • Presses the garment so the seams and hem lie flat
  • Tells you whether the fabric can take the change, and what limits the adjustment

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • How many changes the garment needs and how big each change is
  • Whether the fabric is a delicate or lined material that takes more time
  • Whether the job is a simple hem or a multi-seam alteration
  • Whether the garment needs a new zipper, button or lining
  • How quickly you need the work back
  • Whether a second fitting is included

What a written quote should spell out

  • Each change to be made, such as hem length, waist or sleeve length
  • Whether a fitting is included, and how many fittings are included
  • Whether replacement zippers, buttons or thread are included
  • The pick-up date and whether a rush option applies
  • Whether the tailor will check the garment for damage before starting

Questions to ask before you hire

  • Can you show me alterations you have done on garments like this one?
  • How much can this garment be let out or taken in before the fabric or seams are a problem?
  • Will I need a fitting, and do I need to wear the shoes I plan to use?
  • Do you use a lining or seam finishing that matches the original?
  • What happens if the change does not fit when I pick it up?
  • Can you save the original hem or seam allowance in case I need to change it again?
  • How long will the work take, and is there a rush option?

Red flags

  • Agrees to take in or let out a garment far beyond what its seams allow, with no warning
  • Will not check the fabric or seams before cutting
  • Does not ask what shoes or undergarments you plan to wear with the item
  • Cuts the original seam allowance with no way to undo the change
  • No written plan for fixes if the alteration does not fit

What you can do yourself

You can sew a simple hem by hand or with a basic machine, and you can replace a button or reattach a loose seam. Test any stitch on a scrap of the same fabric before you sew the garment. Hire a tailor for taking in or letting out seams, for lined jackets and coats, for delicate fabrics and for any change that moves the shoulder, the armhole or the waist.

Licenses and permits

A license is often not required for tailoring or alterations, but rules differ by state and city. Ask for a portfolio of similar alterations and proof of training or years of work, such as a shop history or a certificate.

Tailoring and alterations questions

How do I know a garment can be altered?

A tailor checks the seam allowance, the fabric and the lining before deciding. Some garments, such as heavy coats or fabric with a print that runs, have limits. Ask what the tailor sees before you agree to the change.

Should I bring the shoes I will wear?

Yes, for pants and dresses. The hem depends on the heel height, so bring the shoes you plan to wear with the garment for the fitting.

What if the alteration does not fit?

Ask the tailor about their fitting policy before you start. A good tailor offers a second fitting or a fix, and tells you what they will do if the first change does not work.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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