Shoe repair: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What shoe repair is

A cobbler repairs shoes and boots by replacing soles and heels, stitching uppers, fixing zippers and restoring leather. Good repair extends the life of a pair you already own and keeps its fit and shape.

Signs you need it

  • The sole has worn through at the heel or the ball of the foot
  • A heel tip or heel block has come loose or worn down unevenly
  • The stitching on the upper has come apart or the seam is splitting
  • The zipper on a boot is broken or the lining has torn
  • A pair of leather shoes or boots is still in good shape and worth keeping

What the pro does

  • Looks at the shoe's construction, the materials and the wear pattern
  • Removes the old sole, heel or stitching with the right tools
  • Prepares the surface and checks the upper, the insole and the shank for damage
  • Attaches the new sole or heel with glue, stitching or nails, as the shoe requires
  • Trims, shapes and finishes the edges so the repair blends in
  • Cleans, conditions and polishes the leather before you pick the shoes up

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • The repair type, such as a half sole, a full sole, a heel tip or a stitch repair
  • The material of the sole and whether it is leather, rubber or a special material
  • Whether the upper or lining needs repair in addition to the sole
  • Whether the repair involves a zipper, buckle or hardware replacement
  • The condition of the shoe and how much structure needs rebuilding
  • Whether a cleaning, conditioning or polish is included

What a written quote should spell out

  • Each repair named, such as a half sole, a heel replacement or a zipper
  • The sole and heel material and whether it matches the original
  • Whether cleaning, conditioning or polish is included
  • The pick-up date and whether a rush option applies
  • What the cobbler will do if the repair cannot be completed as planned

Questions to ask before you hire

  • Can you match the sole material and color to my shoe?
  • Will the repair change the fit or the height of the shoe?
  • Can you repair the stitching without removing the sole?
  • Do you replace the heel as a whole piece or just the tip?
  • What is the expected life of this repair for the way I wear the shoe?
  • Can you check the shoe for any damage before you start?
  • What happens if the leather cracks during the repair?

Red flags

  • Glues a new sole on without checking the stitching or the shank
  • Changes the fit or height of the shoe without telling you first
  • Cannot say what sole or heel material will be used
  • Pressures you to replace the whole shoe rather than repair the damaged part
  • Returns the shoe with visible glue or uneven edges on the sole

What you can do yourself

You can clean and condition leather, replace worn laces, put in new insoles and apply heel protectors to worn heels. Small glue fixes on the outside edge of a sole can hold for a short time. Hire a cobbler for resoling, stitched repairs, zipper replacement, leather restoration or any repair that changes the fit, because these depend on the right tools and the shoe's construction.

Licenses and permits

A license is often not required for shoe repair, but rules differ by state and city. Ask for proof of training, such as a cobbler apprenticeship, and photos of resoled and stitched work on shoes like yours.

Shoe repair questions

How long does a resole take?

It depends on the cobbler's schedule and the work involved. Ask for a pick-up date when you drop the shoes off, and ask whether a rush is possible.

Can the shoes be resoled more than once?

It depends on the shoe, the upper and the sole that is on it. Ask the cobbler how many resoles the shoe can take before the upper or the shank is at risk.

Should I bring the shoes in dirty?

Clean them first if you can, and remove any dirt from the welt and the stitching. Tell the cobbler about any stains, cracks or loose parts you have noticed.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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