Custom tailoring: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What custom tailoring is

A custom tailor measures you and builds a suit, coat, shirt or other garment to your body and style. The garment is cut from a pattern made for you, and it is fitted in stages until the shoulders, sleeves and waist sit correctly.

Signs you need it

  • Off-the-rack clothing never fits your shoulders, chest or arms correctly
  • You need a suit for a wedding, a job interview or a formal event
  • You want a garment in a fabric and cut you cannot find in a store
  • You want a fit that matches your posture and body shape
  • You want a suit or coat that you can have altered for years to come

What the pro does

  • Takes detailed body measurements, including posture notes and shoulder slope
  • Helps you choose the fabric, lining, buttons and cut for the garment
  • Drafts a pattern from your measurements and makes a first muslin or fitting garment
  • Fits you in the muslin and marks the changes needed in the shoulders, chest and waist
  • Cuts and sews the final garment, with the lining and finishing done by hand where it counts
  • Does a final fitting and makes small changes before you take the garment home

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • The type of garment, such as a suit, a coat, a vest or a shirt
  • The fabric and lining, and how much of each is needed
  • Whether the garment is hand-finished or machine-finished
  • The number of fittings and whether a muslin fitting is included
  • The details, such as monogramming, pockets, linings and buttonholes
  • How soon you need the garment, and whether a rush is requested

What a written quote should spell out

  • The garment type, the fabric and the lining, named in the quote
  • The number of fittings and whether a muslin fitting is included
  • Whether monogramming, special buttons or details are included
  • The estimated completion time and the final fitting date
  • Whether alterations after delivery are included, and for how long

Questions to ask before you hire

  • Can I see garments you have made on bodies with a shape like mine?
  • How many fittings will the garment need, and when are they scheduled?
  • Do you draft the pattern from my measurements or use a standard block?
  • What is the lining and how is the garment finished on the inside?
  • What happens if the fit is off at the final fitting?
  • How do you adjust for posture, shoulder slope and arm length?
  • What alterations are included after I take the garment home?

Red flags

  • Takes measurements in a rush and does not ask about posture or shoulder shape
  • Does not offer a muslin or a first fitting for a new garment
  • Pushes you to choose a fabric or lining you have not seen
  • Will not show finished work from the inside, such as seams and linings
  • Gives a delivery date with no fitting schedule to support it

What you can do yourself

You can measure your chest, waist, hips, sleeve and inseam with a soft tape to keep a record of your size. Keep your existing well-fitting clothing on hand to show the tailor what fit you like. Hire a custom tailor for the pattern, the fittings, the shoulders and the final garment, because the fit depends on careful cutting and multiple fittings.

Licenses and permits

A license is often not required for custom tailoring, but rules differ by state and city. Ask for a portfolio of finished garments, photos of the inside construction and proof of training or apprenticeship.

Custom tailoring questions

How long does a custom suit take?

It depends on the tailor and the number of fittings. A custom suit usually takes several weeks with fittings. Ask the tailor for a timeline that includes the fittings and the final pick-up date.

What is a muslin fitting?

A muslin is a test garment made from inexpensive fabric so the tailor can check the fit before cutting the final fabric. It helps prevent mistakes in the final garment.

Can I change my mind about the fabric after the first fitting?

It depends on how far the work has gone. Ask the tailor before the first fitting what can change and when a change is no longer possible.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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