Hair coloring: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What hair coloring is

A colorist lightens, darkens, tints or covers gray in hair using dyes, bleach, toners and highlighting techniques. Color work changes the look of your hair and the health of the strands, so it is planned around your hair history.

Signs you need it

  • Your roots are showing and you want the color matched or covered
  • You want highlights, balayage, lowlights or a full color change
  • You are covering gray and want a shade that blends with your natural hair
  • You want to go much lighter or darker and need a plan to get there safely
  • You had a color that turned out uneven, brassy or wrong and need it corrected

What the pro does

  • Reviews your hair history, including past dyes, bleach, perms and relaxers
  • Runs a strand test or consultation to check how your hair takes color
  • Mixes the color or lightener for your hair type and the shade you want
  • Applies the color in sections, with foils, painting or a technique chosen for the look
  • Processes the color for the time needed and rinses it out completely
  • Tones and finishes the color, then shows you how to care for it at home

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • How much hair you have and how long it is
  • The technique, such as a full color, foils, balayage or a color correction
  • How many steps are needed, such as lightening before a new shade
  • Your hair's condition and whether treatment is needed before or after color
  • The starting color and how far you want to move from it
  • Whether a toner, gloss or root touch-up is included

What a written quote should spell out

  • The technique, the target shade and the number of steps
  • Whether a consultation or strand test is included
  • Whether toning, gloss and a finishing treatment are part of the service
  • The expected appointment length and the aftercare plan
  • The cancellation and late arrival terms

Questions to ask before you hire

  • What is my starting color, and how far can we safely lighten or darken it?
  • Do you do a strand test before you apply the color?
  • How will you protect the hair from damage during bleaching or lightening?
  • Can I see before and after photos of color work on hair like mine?
  • What aftercare do you recommend to keep the color from fading or turning brassy?
  • How often will I need to come back for root touch-ups or toning?
  • If the color turns out wrong, what do you do to fix it, and is that included?

Red flags

  • Lightens the hair several shades in one session with no talk about damage
  • Will not ask about past chemical services or do a strand test when one is needed
  • Cannot explain the products or processing times they plan to use
  • Promises an exact shade without seeing your hair in person
  • No written plan for correction if the color does not come out as agreed

What you can do yourself

You can keep your color fresh at home with sulfate-free shampoo, cool water rinses and a gentle deep conditioner. If you try a box color, follow the strand test and the skin patch test on the box, and avoid bleach at home on hair you have already colored. Hire a colorist for lightening, color corrections, gray coverage on large areas, and any change that goes more than a few shades.

Licenses and permits

Hair coloring is commonly covered by state cosmetology rules, and most states require a cosmetology license for paid color work. Check with your state's cosmetology or licensing board before you book.

Hair coloring questions

How do I know if my hair can handle bleach?

A colorist checks the hair's strength, elasticity and past chemical services before bleaching. Damaged or over-processed hair may need treatment first or a slower plan.

How often should I get my roots touched up?

It depends on how fast your hair grows and how far the color is from your natural shade. Ask your colorist for a schedule that fits the look you choose.

Why did my color fade or turn brassy?

Heat, sun, hard water and harsh shampoos can change color over time. Ask the colorist for a toning plan and a shampoo that suits your shade.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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