Paver installation: what to know

What the job involves, what changes the price, and what to ask a pro.

What paver installation is

Paver installation sets interlocking concrete, clay or stone pavers on a compacted gravel and sand base to make a patio, walk or drive that can be lifted and reset if the ground shifts. It is a popular choice when people want a finished look with a surface that can handle freeze and thaw movement better than some poured options.

Signs you need it

  • A patio, walk or drive is cracked or heaved, and you want a surface that can be repaired one piece at a time
  • Bare ground or uneven gravel is in the way of a new outdoor room, and it needs a firm, level surface
  • You want a pattern or color that suits the house, such as herringbone, running bond or a stone look
  • Water runs across a yard and needs a permeable or well-drained surface that sends it away from the house
  • A walk or patio is sinking in spots, and pavers can be lifted, rebedded and reset where the ground has settled
  • A pool deck, fire pit or garden path needs a non-slip, durable surface that holds up to furniture and foot traffic

What the pro does

  • Mark the layout and set grade, then excavate to the depth the base and the paver thickness require
  • Lay out and compact a gravel base in layers, checking the slope so water runs off the surface
  • Spread and screed a thin bedding layer of sand, struck flat to the finish grade
  • Set the pavers in the chosen pattern, keeping joints tight and checking the level with a straightedge as you go
  • Cut edge pieces with a masonry saw and set the edge restraints to hold the field of pavers in place
  • Spread jointing sand over the surface, compact the pavers and sweep the sand into the joints, then wet the surface to set it

What changes the price

Every job is different, so we do not publish prices. These are the things that move the quote up or down.

  • Total area and the shape of the layout, since curves, borders and diagonal patterns cut more pavers
  • Paver type and size, with stone, concrete and clay products each priced and installed differently
  • Pattern complexity, such as herringbone or a multi-color border, which takes more time than a running bond
  • Excavation depth and the base needed for vehicle loads, or the thin base for foot traffic only
  • Edge restraint type, such as plastic, steel or concrete, and whether a drain or a permeable base is needed
  • Access to the site, the distance materials must be carried and the removal of the old surface

What a written quote should spell out

  • Paver type, size, color and pattern, with the supplier or product line named
  • Base depth, stone type and compaction method, with the bedding sand thickness
  • Edge restraint type and the border details, including any soldier course or header row
  • Jointing sand type and the sealer, if one is included
  • Drainage details for the surface, such as a slope and any outlet for water
  • Removal and haul-off of the old surface, if it is part of the job

Questions to ask before you hire

  • How deep is the base, and is it right for the traffic this surface will carry?
  • What edge restraint do you use, and will the edges stay tight over time?
  • How do you get the surface level and keep the joints tight?
  • What sand do you use for the joints, and how often will it need topping up?
  • Will the pavers settle or shift if the ground moves, and how would they be repaired?
  • Do you seal the pavers, and what sealer do you recommend for this use?

Red flags

  • Lays pavers on a thin base with no compaction for a driveway that will carry vehicles
  • Uses no edge restraint, so the pavers spread and the joints open over time
  • Skips the grade check and sets the surface flat where water should run off
  • Puts sand straight on soil without a compacted gravel base
  • Says the pavers will never need resetting, regardless of the base or the soil

What you can do yourself

A homeowner can lay a small walk or a short border of pavers on a well-compacted base if the area is small and level. Call a pro for a patio, a drive, a slope, a pool deck or any surface that carries vehicles or heavy loads, because base and grade errors show up quickly as settling and loose pavers. Pavers are heavy and cutting them throws silica dust, so wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator rated for silica dust.

Licenses and permits

Whether paver work needs a contractor license varies by place and by job size, and larger drives, retaining elements and drainage changes are commonly done under a contractor license. Check with your state or local licensing agency and your local building department before work starts, especially for a driveway or a change in grade.

Paver installation questions

Why are my pavers sinking or shifting?

The usual causes are a base that was not compacted well, poor drainage that washed out the bedding, or edges that were not restrained. A pro can lift the affected pavers, correct the base and reset them.

Can pavers handle a car on the driveway?

Yes, when the base is built for vehicles and the pavers are rated and installed for that load. Ask the pro what base depth and paver type they use for a drive, since a patio paver is not always the right choice.

Do weeds grow between pavers?

Weeds can grow in the joints if the sand is thin or the joints are not sealed. Ask the pro about the joint sand and sealer, and plan on some weed control in the first seasons.

About this guide

This national guide is written and checked by infinibell. Rules and conditions differ by place, so local pros are credited on guides for the cities they serve, not on national ones.

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